Using Face Charts

Lots of makeup artists use face charts to create looks or to make sure they don’t forget a look when inspiration strikes them. One of the most famous examples are the MAC makeup charts that are available to browse in the store. It is a great exhibition of talent, and the best proof that makeup artistry is a real, and sometimes breathtaking, art. Using a face chart is just transferring the canvas from a living one, to paper. 

A great example of this kind of talent is one of my favourite MUAs @kilprity: 

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These charts are done using real makeup products. However that isn’t the only option. If you are just experimenting with colours, or want to see what something will look like, you can always use coloured pencils instead. Some makeup products work better on paper than others. Powders, for example. But creams and liquids don’t work. Also using brushes on paper can ruin them.

For inspiration, search the hashtag #facechart on instagram for an amazing display of talent. (I always use instagram instead of Google images, because most makeup artists post on instagram).

And the best part is, with this hack you won’t need to pay for a pad of face charts. Just print this picture!

MAC face chart

This is the basic Mac template. It is the most recognizable face of face chart. Does it remind anyone else of Angelina Jolie?

 

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Great Budget Beauty Buys

I absolutely love the store ‘& Other Stories’. When I go there with my Mum she spends hours looking at the clothes and shoes, and I spend hours looking at the jewellery and makeup. It is the store with something for everyone. I went in the other day and found some great beauty buys that won’t break the bank.

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First up, this Concealer Quad (£12). It consists of 4 different skin tone colours designed to suit any concealing needs. However, it should be called a contour quad because that is what it does best. With 4 vastly varied cream colours, this can be used to highlight and contour a multitude of skin tones.

And speaking of contouring, they also have a Face Contour Cream for £10

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It looks very dark but with the right amount of blending (I recommend a Beauty Blender Sponge) you will be able to sculpt and define brand new cheek bones and a thinner nose.

And lastly, my favourite, is this much more affordable alternative to NARS’ Matte Multiple (albeit they aren’t matte)

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These Multi Tint Sticks (£10) can be used, as the name implies, a multitude of ways,. Cheeks, eyes, lips, whatever you want. They come in 6 colours ranging from the very light shimmery, to a deep bronze. And the best part is you could get 3 for the price of 1 NARS Matte Multiple.

I promise I am not on the & Other Stories pay roll in any way, I just really love this shop. If you can’t get to the store itself, try their website www.stories.com.

DIY: Make your own Lip Scrub

For this simple lip scrub you will need just three ingredients:

1tsp sugar

1tsp honey

1tsp olive oil

Mix all these ingredients together till you get a thick goo

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Rub the mixture onto your lips with your finger for about 30 seconds, then rinse off with warm water.

To further exfoliate your lips, brush them with a toothbrush. This increases the circulation to your lips, making them fuller. Then apply a lip balm straight away for healthy, full, smooth lips. 

Easy, and cheap. 

Behind the Lense: A call for glasses on the red carpet!

Call me biased, but I think glasses deserve a more prominent place in the mainstream, and in beauty. As someone who is short-sighted, I understand the sacrifice of vision for beauty. I can’t wear contacts because my eyes are very dry and after about 20 minutes it feels like I have shards of glass digging into my eyes everytime I blink. Whenever I have worn contacts on a night out I have had to come home early, just to take them out. Or take them out in the club bathroom and throw them away even though they’re monthlies, not dailies. Therefore my only choices are wearing my glasses, which I happen to love, or going blind. Which has it’s own perils. 

Glasses did have a moment in the sun recently, thanks to hipsters, and people even bought fake glasses just to follow this trend. That was a good time for us four-eyes. But no matter how fashionable they are, stars are still shedding their frames in favour for contacts on the red carpet. This is disappointing, and I want to call all glasses wearers who don’t like contacts to wear your pair with pride!

I personally think I look better with my glasses on! They make my nose look smaller and you can’t see fully how red and tired my eyes look. Plus not forgetting how much my cats like to rub their faces on them. 

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From a makeup artist’s point of view, I understand how you would want everyone to be able to see the work you’ve put in on your own or your client’s eyes. But some glasses add extra framing to the eyes and make them stand out even more. If you are going to a formal do, don’t be afraid to just wear your glasses! It’s way more attractive than squinting all night anyway. And these celebs look great in theirs:

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The amazing Julia Louis-Dreyfus isn’t afraid to wear hers on a red carpet.

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Neither is Christina Hendricks, albeit at a Specsavers event..

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Pure glamour on Meryl Streep

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Anne Hathaway looks even BETTER in her pair.

 

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And my favourite glasses wearer – Tina Fey. 

I am honoured to be part of this group and I look forward to seeing a further rise of glasses in the beauty world soon. 

A Brief History of Makeup

Men and Women have been using makeup since the beginning of civilisation, as a form of enhancement, disguise and expression. From the Ancient Egyptians, through the Middle Ages, up to today. I am going to take a look at some of the key periods of makeup’s development, starting with the 16th century (note: I am a complete history nerd, especially when it comes to the 16th century so I may go on a bit).

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Lettice Knollys, cousin to Queen Elizabeth I, was considered one of the most beautiful women at court during the beginning of Elizabeth’s reign (until she was banished for marrying Robert Dudley, Elizabeth’s BFF). She was like a slightly improved Elizabeth, Elizabeth 2.0, with her high forehead, cream complexion and fiery hair. In this painting, her pale complexion and rosy cheeks are evident. Whether the sitter enhanced these herself, or the painter took the liberties to compliment Lettice, the standard of beauty is set.

Throughout the first half of the 1500s, Henry VIII’s reign, the standard of beauty was pale skin, fair hair, a small mouth and a fuller figure (see a young Catherine of Aragon). People who would be considered attractive today (for example Anne Boleyn with her dark eyes and hair and olive skin with a fuller mouth  and slim figure) were seen as ‘ugly’. During Elizabeth’s reign the emphasis for pale skin was, if anything, even greater. Elizabeth’s red hair and high broad forehead encouraged ladies to pluck their hairline, and her clear eyebrows caused ladies to pluck their eyebrows completely. A smaller, pursed mouth was still attractive, as was a straight, narrow nose. 

Due to these beauty norms, the desired effect of makeup was much different from today. Women wanted to increase their pallor as much as they could, some even taking pains to draw blue veins on their skin. This whiteness was achieved by a mixture termed ‘ceruse’ which was a combination of white lead and vinegar. Due to the effects lead had on the skin (it is poison) other techniques could be used. Mixtures of alum, tin ash, sulpher or alternatively egg whites and talc to form a base. Raw egg whites were also often used as a ‘glaze’ to hide wrinkles. This also gave the wearer an inability to move their face, in case their face should literally crack. Vermillion was a popular choice for blush and lip colour.

The effect of all this was quite unsubtle, however with the misogyny of the time, especially towards ageing women, there was a lot of pressure to keep the illusion of youth and beauty (ring any bells?)

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Our beloved Elizabeth in old age. As you can see, she favoured cosmetics (especially after a bout of smallpox in 1562) and about half way through her reign took to wearing wigs. 

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Anne Marie Duff’s portrayal of Elizabeth I in the two part series The Virgin Queen is my favourite on screen interpretation. As you can see the makeup here is more subtle, due to 21st century advances. 

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A young lady modelling the hair and makeup of the Elizabethan court. 

Flashing forward a few hundred years to the 1920s. This was the time of the beauty revolution. Women liberated themselves from the oppressive beauty norms of the Victorians by cutting their hair short and experimenting with androgyny. The opposite of the feminine, enhanced waist look of the 1910s. Women now embraced makeup without shame as a form of rebelling against society. With the introduction of brands such as Maybelline and Max Factor, producing brand new products such as mascaras, lipsticks and eyeshadows WITHOUT the poisonous ingredients, women were free to go as mad as they wanted with their makeup. 

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Strangely, after hundreds of years, the beauty norms were still pale skin and small lips, however women now drew attention to their eyes. Kohl was used and over used, and women got very creative when it came to mascara. In the early 1920s for example, women resorted to mixing vaseline with soot or coal and applying it to their lashes with a brush. The mid 20s brought with it mascara available in cake form, and eyelash curlers were used. 

Blush was much easier to use now, available in creams, powders and liquids, which led to it being completely over applied. Also the desire for the perfectly shaped cupids bow led to lip tracers, to get that lip shape that to our modern eye looks harsh and unattractive.

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This was all very unflattering, but that was kind of the point. It was a rejection of society’s norms and ‘the man’ and it paved the way for the beauty industry we know and enjoy today.

Glazing over the 1930s (more of the same) and into the 1940s, the era of brows and lips.

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Women embraced their natural skin tone more, however foundations were still very heavy. An arched brow was all the rage, they were shaped and brushed over with a matte eyeshadow. Liquid eyeliner replaced kohl and was used to create a subtle flick on the upper eyelid, again with plenty of mascara.

Lips were red, red, red, to match their nails. Finally the thin lipped small mouth look was abandoned and women embraced a fuller mouth. Over-lining was encouraged in order to get that luscious lips look.

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The next big step in makeup’s evolution was the 1960s. Eyes were the main object of focus of the 1960s ladies’ makeup routine. Styles in fashion, such as monochrome and geometric shapes, were imitated in makeup, with the introduction of the cut crease:

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The cut crease of the 60s was a sharp line, often drawn with eyeliner, as opposed to the more blended look we go for today. It was all about a white shadow with a black crease. On top of this, stacks of false lashes were applied. Lashes became part of a girl’s everyday makeup routine, doubling up to two pairs for the evenings. Wearing lashes on your lower lash line also became popular, but if you couldn’t be dealing with the fuss, you could just draw them on, alla Twiggy.

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Mascara was also finally available in a tube with a wand applicator but block mascaras activated with water (or spit) were still used.

Liquid and gel liners were also being used more daringly to draw an exaggerated cat eye, or just a pattern:

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Photo of RONETTESThe Ronettes

Due to all the attention of the eyes, the lips were kept understated and the trend for nude lips was born. 

photo 2 (4)A classic sixties makeup look

The 1970s can be summed up in one word: bronzer.

For the 1980s, people went overboard with colours. And, similar to the 1920s, people abandoned the whole ‘highlight your eyes OR your lips’ motto and went full whack for both. 

The nineties saw the trend for a matte brown/nude lipstick, alla Rachel Green

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Eyes were kept kind of simple with a thin penciled brow and the emphasis went to the perfect brown toned lipstick

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And of course 90s star, Gwen Stefani made the bindi part of mainstream beauty:

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We are to close to the noughties to really see what they brought us, it is hard to reflect on a period we are still more or less in. But makeup is always developing and always will. It will always be used to enhance, liberate and decorate. However one thing I can say about makeup nowadays, is there are fewer rules. There isn’t one exact trend, because we can use any of these trends. There is no classic standard of beauty anymore, therefore we are using makeup for fun, not to please others. And whether you wear it or not, you have to admire the power, and respect the history, of makeup. 

The Dos and Don’ts of Summer Makeup Looks

Summer is a crazy time for makeup. If it’s not too hot to wear any (unlike today, where people wearing makeup deserve a medal) it’s nice to experiment a bit more with colour. But there aren’t really any rules, do whatever feels comfortable. These are just some of my ideas for Hot Summer Makeup:

DO go coral!

Whether lipstick or blush, coral and orange shades are always in for summer. At the moment I am in love with this Lime Crime lipstick in Cosmopop:

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 It looks very orange but it actually has more of a nudey/corally look on the lips. 

I also think these summer blushes look super cute:

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These Clinique Blush Pops come in 4 different shades, 2 berry shades (Berry Pop and Plum Pop) and 2 coral shades (Ginger Pop and Peach Pop). They are creme based so they won’t form a weird paste on your skin when you sweat, like powders tend to do. 

Another great cheek colour for summer are the Daniel Sandler Watercolour blushes, in particular the Acid and Trip duo set:

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At £25 for BOTH they’re very good value for the quality you are getting. They are highly pigmented and easy to blend, plus the colour lasts through storms and sunshine. These colours are gorgeous for summer. Trip (the orange) is great for complimenting your tan. 

DON’T be put off using dark colours! Your dark berry and purple lipsticks still can have a place in your summer makeup routine, if teemed with glowy bronzed skin and minimal eye makeup, alla these stars:

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(see my post on purple lips for the best products)

DO pair a smokey eye with a nude lip for the balmy summer evenings.This look looks amazing with a tan! 

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A great smokey eye palette is the Benefit Smokin’ Eyes Kit (£28.50)

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This kit also comes with a great eyebrow wax and highlighter that I use everyday, and a brush for easy application.

Lastly, DO what you feel comfortable with. Wear your makeup how you want, or wear none. If you are going to brave wearing makeup in this heat, just remember to use a good primer and a setting spray so you don’t accidentally leave your face behind on the tube.  

 

Miracle Product of the Month: July

This months Miracle Product is not a specific product from a specific brand, it is item almost every makeup brand produces, and one that is definitely worth purchasing.  The White Eyeliner Pencil. It is so ingrained into my makeup routine … Continue reading

Amrezy Palette or Marge for Mac? Help!

Hello dolls, sorry for the long absence. I’ve just moved house and been without internet or TV for 3 whole days! It’s been a struggle. Especially seeing as I don’t get 3G in this new house (thanks EE).

But anyway, this post is going to be about 2 new exciting collections. One has already been released, the other is set for online release on August 28th. My funds are limited so I can only buy ONE, and I can’t decide which. 

The first, which has already been released, is the Amrezy Palette from Anastasia Beverly Hills (£24 available at cultbeauty.co.uk

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This palette from the insta-famous Amrezy consists of 10 gorgeous colours. 5 matte, and 5 iridescent. For those who don’t follow Amrezy on Instagram (and I recommend that you do, she’s luminous) these are all her signature colours that she uses to make up almost all her makeup looks. It is incredibly reasonably priced for the amount of colours and the quality of the brand (Anastasia is a bit of a legend in the makeup community). Normally this would be a no brainer, however shipping on Cult Beauty brings the price up to nearly £30 and then I wouldn’t be able to buy any of the next collection…

The Marge for Mac collection!

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With an early release for ComicCon goers, the internet has given us a glimpse of the glorious collection, set for online release on August 28th. And it is good. 

Even though my relationship with Mac is currently on rocky ground, I am also probably the biggest Simpsons fan in the UK (at least!) So I would be willing to purchase this stuff just for the packaging alone. But luckily, it all looks AMAHZING! There is a blusher, 2 eye shadow palettes, 4 lip glass lipglosses, a pair of fake eyelashes and some nail stickers. I particularly have my eye on the blush, (probably £20) and the Grand Pumpkin lip glass (probably £14). Excluding shipping this brings the total to £34. Plus there’s a big chance it will all sell out before I have the chance to buy it. 

So what should I do, dolls? I feel like I’d use the blush and lip glass more than the eyeshadows of the Amrezy palette, but I might not even get hold of them. I could just wait until August 28th and see if I am lucky, but then in the mean time I really want to play around with some different eye shadow looks with my girl, Amrezy! 

Help me, Internet! I would really love your feedback. I need advice!

Vegan Friendly Makeup Brands

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